Without advertising solely by wordofmouth

Behind the mark Taffin lies James Taffin de Givenchy who is the nephew of fashion designer Hubert Taffin of Givenchy. Barely more than quarantine, dressed in a costume very dark banker, but without tie, the jeweler displays a stature of rugby player. What is host to its natural elegance perfectly given to his very name "hunting faces". Originating in Artois, the Taffin de Givenchy are derived from an old Venetian family anoblie by Louis XIV. Since then, all the men of the line have rank of marquis. But his success across the Atlantic is not due to this prestigious descent. It is the darling of the jet - set us that how much its jewelry colorful, surrealistic, large, very "couture". The press, it also gives in the dithyramb: very smart Tatler magazine sees James de Givenchy as "the most interesting of the jewellers to be installed on Fifth Avenue from Cartier in 1909"! It is said...

Which like the us in its jewelry First they will notice. Nautilus, star of sea, flower, sea urchin and other figures from the fauna and flora are gigantic, almost as true that nature proportions. Showy and bright, the large stones of colors mix with daring and insolence. The fanciful balance is sometimes fragile but is still subtle. To Harry Fane, collector of vintage Cartier jewellery and organizer of several sales Taffin in London, "James has enough confidence in him to exhibit amazing but never offensive.". "His jewelry is classic with a twist". As evidenced by these clips, for which he has not hesitated to marry green do Garnet with a yellow diamond and an Amethyst. Another sign of recognition: the way it deals with its stones. It does not "brilliant" size in the centre of his creations. Perfectly round and mathematically studied to refract light at best, it seems too impersonal. He favours rather old, popular sizes in the 19th century. His favorite is the size "cushion" in the form of square bubble with rounded angles. Thus treated, Sapphire, diamond and tourmaline win charm and femininity.

Head of deer in Meerschaum

The us also like amazing or rare materials that it uses. Thus the foam sea of Turkey in which he carved a deer's head. Or these mammoth tusks recently discovered in Siberia and ten thousand years, used for beads to Zodiac reasons. Taffin has especially mind couture French in the 1950s. A meeting with his uncle point because, as in the clothing created by the latter, creativity and fantasy the bowed ever the purity of the lines and the elegance of form. For the U.S., they are easy to wear and are consistent with a luxurious Mickael Kors cashmere or the eternal little black dress in Ralph Lauren.

"Her jewellery are neither French nor American", believes Harry Fane. They echo those created by the Italian Fulco di Verdura or the French Jean Schlumberger, who had a great success at the United States in the years 1940-1950. But the name of "JAR" is often to characterize the style Taffin. A compliment that James appreciates its just measure because it is Joseph Arthur Rosenthal who gave him want to make this trade. This French jeweler who refuses any interview is regarded as a master. And those who collect James de Givenchy jewelry have noted the similarities, especially in the quality of their work. Example with this microscopic stone pavement in a subtle gradient of colors, soft pink to white anodized, contained the petals of a flower whose heart is a pink Topaz.

As all the parts worthy of this name jewelry, signed jewellery Taffin is also beautiful upside as the location. Delicate arabesques of gold form the "liner" a 60 Carat Sapphire, the emmaillement of the strings is extraordinary flexibility and impeccably finished clasps. "Do not wait until it's too late to preserve the know-how", is alarm James de Givenchy which all creations are made in small workshops in the United States and France. But why not have crossed the Atlantic in the other direction to move closer to the place Vendôme, the Mecca of jewellery Beyond the red tape that involves the creation of a company in France, James is now married to an American. It relies on the will of his uncle at the origin of the style Audrey Hepburn and bishops Jackie Kennedy for his official visit to France. The image of these elegant two is forever linked to the Givenchy style which they contributed to the great success across the Atlantic. "The impact continues to be very positive to the United States, because women consider that talent is genetic." For them, I in necessarily inherited. In France, it would have explained that I had failed my talent but my relationships and my family!

He thought become a sculptor or painter

Come to learn English and study graphic design at the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, James thought rather become a sculptor or painter like Jules Badin, his paternal great grandfather, who was also Director of a tapestry workshop in Beauvais and great friend of Corot. But after opening the first shop Givenchy men in New York, he entered as a Director of jewellery at Christie's, on the West Coast. In this prestigious House of auction sales, it initiates the jewellery through the creations of Suzanne Belperron, Boivin, Schlumberger and others. "My uncle never intervened in my professional career, but it was he who really opened my eyes to the jewellery admiring, a day where he spent at Christie's, a brooch of the Italian jeweler Fulco di Verdura." Coincidentally, it is at that moment that Ward Landrigan, who had bought the House Verdura, appealed to James of Givenchy. Aspiring jewellery had to spend several months at his side before launching Taffin, its own brand. Then, "all had little by little." Without advertising, solely by word-of-mouth. "A client made me make a piece, another client came, etc.," he says, very humble before the success of his business. Because the jeweler is discrete as confirmed by his family. Harry Fane flowing praise: "charming, humorous, honest and, especially, integrates.". If I was asked to go on holiday with him, I would answer Yes without hesitation. "To boost his house image and sales, he attended well a few social evenings but refuses to"product placement", the practice of asking the stars to wear jewellery - that they do not always. James of Givenchy still remembers with exasperation of his one and only experience in the field. Jewellery he reported six months later in a bag made of plastic and completely damaged! Its concessions to marketing therefore merely for the time being to a line of shows called "Stella", as her daughter. The bracelet, consisting of a succession of geometric patterns, was designed by him as anything out of his Fifth Avenue showroom, as he himself recognizes: it was very difficult to delegate. He would also like to launch a perfume that its name is really associated with luxury. Or, why not, a handbag. "This is the accessory that all women wear and who is closest to the jewel with its rivets, the clasp, the Cove."

Its success would have already fuelled the covetous of large groups, but James of Givenchy is lucid. "Everything would be controlled with sole objective profitability." Farewell stocks of exceptional stones that I buy at the blow of heart and that I work with inspiration. "He knows how his uncle Hubert de Givenchy badly lived experience. Having sold its claw to LVMH in 1988, the designer is unable to agree with the new managers and he left the House he had created in 1995. Impossible to forget the lesson. As it is also the reason why James is not able to use the surname Givenchy, become the property of the large group of luxury.

His favourite restaurant

Gramercy Tavern

The large the less pretentious restaurant in Manhattan. Located Downtown, a few blocks from Union Square, it offers classic American cuisine without fault which makes the happiness of a client connected without excess. Its rustic decor and soft lighting make a warm place. Desserts are exceptional, as this pie to lemon soufflé.

Gramercy Tavern 42Euro (s). 20th Street, New York.

To read

Hubert de Givenchy, Jean-Noël Liaud (Grasset)